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electricity energy bulb 100 ইলেকট্রনিক এনার্জি বাল্ব

The reason for the 31 inch. Antenna is that that is the optimum length for f. M reception also, the longer the mast, the better for week. A m stations short nubs do not work well for distance

Cat has 💡

It might be a power factor issue. Many of the power supplies in the bulbs have inductors or capacitors that can put the voltage out of phase with the current. Possibly the watt meter has no way to correct for this? Naw, the bulb companies are lying.

Great video

My 2007 Focus diverter knob gets stuck. I know better than to try and force it (and break it). Instead, I take off the center panel (of the radio & ventilation controls) and use the handle of a hammer (holding the hammer head) stick it thru the opening and bang on the diverter box firmly while lightly trying to turn the knob, and it becomes unstuck, easily. It turns out that the knob only gets stuck after being left in one of the 2 extreme positions (vent and defrost). So I avoid leaving it in those positions overnight. If I forget, I can get it unstuck fairly easily. Me thinks the issue is the diverter door in the box getting hung up, and not the control Adam is replacing. I suspect he'll have the problem again? I do appreciate his demo, tho.

Did you try to duplicate the results in order to validate them and also to verify that the meter is accurate?

we don't what else is plugged in at the same as you turning the light... apparently, I have all LED light bulbs and smart LED light bulbs, it's on 24/7 with the smart light bulb.. and doesn't affect my electric bill... however, the so-called energy efficient mini-split does use the most electricity but it is relatively not bad at all. My electric bill is $133.15 a month... it's the rate that are the killer...

I have replaced it three times--it KEEPS getting stuck and like you said the cable breaks--any ideas on how to fix the getting stuck problem???

🖐🖐🖐🖐😂

Thanks this video helped I just Put my Car On Top of Ramps and Didn't have to Pull the Seat Out I just Removed the Front Plastic Trim around The Stereo and the A/C Controll Vents i got The Part at a Junk yard it worked pretty Good

Plus , it wasn't clear about instructions to fix it

Shit , f it , this is an insane amount of work to fix it..guess I'll just keep living with the defrost working

What’s the name of this white part ?

Where do I order the part

Thanks for making this video. This is the exact problem I'm having. I have an '07. My heater temperature controller is also bad. Again, thanks!

Perfect, thank you!

Had the exact same problem with an 05...

I'm having this problem with my ford focus,I really need the radio to work, every mechanic I go to seems not to know how to do it

Nice test 👍

Similar process for ford Fusion 2003

Your life will suck 🙂 thanks for the vid.

Thank you! 👍

What's the part number? Or the actual name for me to look for?

very common problem I've had 10 2005-2007 focus and everyone had this problem the doors get stuck for some reason No reason to remove the seat!!! just remove the knee bolster

I've had my focus 3 years can't find steering wheel adjustment and don't know how to check transmission fluid. Running and warm or cool not running the transmission dip stick is easy to access.? Please someone answer ASAP.

Hey I have a 2007 Ford focus and everything is manually done seat etc. Does the steering wheel adjust?

Thanks Adam ...

Hello Adam.....I am really confused.....reputable mechanics are telling me they can't find a cable for my 2007 Ford Focus. The knob that switches the vents is stuck on dashboard vent....I think the hot/cold dial might sticking too. Not sure...but vent switch is really stuck...They had worked on the dashboard knobs a couple of months ago in March and noted "Inspected vehicle and found cable on rear of the control knob to be broken and twisted up into the switch causing it to bind. Replaced a/c heater selector switch, operating as designed at this time". They now tell me they can't get the part (cable) and are searching on line for the part. Should I take the car to the dealer? I don't know what to do. Why can't they find a cable part replacement? Will this be expensive at the dealer? Please call me at 302-562-6298 if you can. Thank you. Louise Boyd

why did you remove your seat? I replaced mine a few years back and didn't remove my seat. DON'T FORGET TO LUBE THE LOWER APPARATUS WITH LUBE GREASE. If you do not, then on cold days it gets stuck and hard to turn and it'll break AGAIN. I know cause I have done it.

Turn heater on high before trying to turn selector it will free up the goop sealing the compartment flap. Then never leave it in either the full stop in either clockwise or anti clockwise when you turn off car.

The actual cause of this problem (broken heater/ac control cables) is that the "rubber" seals on the edges of the door flaps deteriorate. And turn into a sticky, gummy substance. So when they are closed, they stick to the housing. The control cables aren't very strong, and when the user tries to free the "stuck" control, the cable breaks. Unfortunately, the only permanent fix is to replace the entire heater/ac under-dash unit. (Because individual parts for it aren't available). About $550 new from Ford. But that's not the worst of it. Replacing the unit requires removing the steering column, and basically unbolting and removing the entire dash unit. Dozens of electric connectors and easily broken plastic retainers. Also discharging the AC system. A 9.5 hour job, according to shop rate manuals.

While I find this soo fascinating there's alot of other factors that aren't accounted for in this test. Like others said below but also I am pretty sure the reason for the last LED being closest to accurate is because of the time between the first bulbs used and the later ones. As they heat up and can actually be using electric through the circuits etc for a bit after the bulb/light is turned off etc. It may have then effected the next bulb tested. I would love to see this test done in reverse order and with a specific longer time between each tested bulb as well as checking wattage used after a certain length of time on for each bulb as well. I think I've also read that some of the older non led bulbs also tend to start using more as they continue being on longer, as they heat up etc. No clue how accurate any of my comment is, and I'm far too exhausted to remember any scientific terminology rattling around somewhere in my brain, so I do apologize but I love this testing concept so much, I would love to see you do it with the suggested conditions and added variables mentioned for sure. Pretty please :) haha. I also wonder if you have 2 of the exact same lamps/sockets and 2 exact same wattage meters and tested the very old style bulbs (I beleive one of the first few you did) and the led on seperate ends of the table for the exact same length of time etc. How the readings would show then. And also, do the readings change if you are using a different lamp/light socket? So many questions! Hahaha. Thank you for doing this ❤️ love these little "experiments" so much!

Mine is stuck on defrost so I'm assuming this is the issue. I plan on replacing 😌

what is your conclusion?

thanks. exactly what I was looking for. exact same problem. You saved me a lot of headaches

I have to do this, but mine has the garage door opener compartment and sunglass holder in that spot. All the videos I've seen are the basic overhead lights.

After cfls warm up they use way less power

Wow

Ugh I'm pretty sure this just happened to my 07 Ford Focus. It was super hard to turn and I forced it one day it was warm out to get some cold air then the next day it was cold so had to turn it back to floor mode then the next day it was warm again and found out It's stuck on defrost! Summers coming up and where I live it's very humid so I'll definitely my face vents! Gonna see if my fiance can do this or I might try to reach behind and manipulate it like you said in the beginning. Thanks for the video

I would question the accuracy of your wattage meter. Some, if not most of the CFLs and LEDs nice be using pulse width modulation, so pulling more watts in short bursts, fractional seconds, and perhaps your meter is seeing the high bursts, but not the lows in between. There might also be some kind of burn in, warm up period where the bulbs are consuming more or less power than usual. I know that florescent bulbs have to pulse higher wattage to create the initial arc and vaporize the mercury.

Umm

Danke schon Adam

True test would be to unplug everything in your place but that lamp and have a camera recording the electric meter outside the utility company uses as you try each bulb.

Uhmmmm. Hmmm

So right!!!! Just walked my mom with the ice/snow scrapper...😭 thanks for the video👊

Did your car actually run better after changing the filter because of all that gunk in the old one? Idle wise?

You are wrong! Buy multimeter and not some random china made crap which shows random numbers. Its like one of those tv marketed trash things which does nothing :D .This year was the save your electric bill with plugging this in :D if you open you see there is nothing inside :D . Want to measure buy multimeter. Next you must count from bulb connections. I mean put multimeter dots to bulb connection spots, this will be that screw one at bottom other on side metal and chech. You will get numbers than use (vir) counting basic thing. As you dont seem to know how electricity works. You have long old wire, the lamp also all those things will make readings wrong. Electricity is working same as running water in pipes simple explanation and it can do same as water in hose . Cant say about the bulbs in usa i live in eu. Here if numbers are wrong you will not gonna sell product anymore. We have EU labeled energy saving readings on side and if it says 5,5 W it will be 5,5 W gov are checking always this as eu going toward 0 CO2 polution. I would recommend led only as they are 5,5W eqvivalent-40W simple cheap bulb. Want to save energy than bulbs go out buy led and remove all chargers which are switched into circuit.

Thank you SO much. I managed to make the repair for $6.50 (re-used part). Without your excellent video I would not have known where to start👍👍👍

Good video , thank you Adam where are you storing your tool the car wash bucket 😳. Lol just razzing you😊